At Balenciaga, Pierpaolo Piccioli pushes the boundaries between sport and tailoring

Pierpaolo Piccioli seems intent on exploring how far the relationship between sport and tailoring can be pushed. On Thursday, the French fashion house unveiled and launched for sale, on its website and in its boutiques, a collaboration with the NBA, the U.S. basketball league. At the same time, ahead of the Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks, it presented its lookbook for Autumn 2026.

“I believe that sport is one of the most powerful ways of expressing values such as excellence, integrity and respect. On a pitch or court, people from different backgrounds, cultures and abilities come together under the same rules and with the same goals,” said the creative director of the Kering group house, in a press release.

“This shared space creates a heightened sense of connection and focus, reminding us of the discipline, commitment and intensity that define sport at its highest level.”

For the NBA line, that commitment is expressed through key sportswear pieces reinterpreted in materials such as leather, satin, cotton poplin and Japanese denim, and, in addition to black, in the NBA’s historic colours: red, blue and white. The brand adopts sporting codes by marking T-shirts and coach jackets with the number 10, a nod to the address of its headquarters on Avenue George V in Paris, or with a stylised “B” on the back or over the heart.

But sport permeates the Balenciaga universe well beyond this. The brand’s Autumn 2026 proposal, captured in the streets and métro of Paris by photographer Robin Galiegue, explores the potential of imposing tailored pieces, echoing the house’s past designs, such as cashmere capes and neo-gazar coats, which the creative director is working to revive.

Today, Piccioli goes further and pairs them with techwear pieces. Heavy wool coats and oversized leather jackets are worn over a shorts-and-leggings duo crafted from Probody fabric, which offers moisture-wicking, breathability and antibacterial properties. In the age of wellbeing, this trend runs through most of the looks in the Autumn 2026 collection.

The designer has not forgotten the importance of accessories, either. While these creations are designed for training or yoga, they are also accompanied by a new bag model, the 7, patinated crystal jewellery and exceptional shoes from a collaboration with Manolo Blahnik.