Paris Fashion Week to feature 68 runway shows, as Valentino, Maison Margiela return

No fewer than nine labels will be making their return on Paris Fashion Week’s official calendar at the end of September, and six of them will stage runway shows to unveil their Spring/Summer 2027 women’s ready-to-wear collections.

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On July 24, the French Fashion and Haute Couture Federation (FHCM) published the week’s official provisional calendar, stretching from Monday September 28 to Tuesday October 6, and confirming Paris’s dominant position among the world’s fashion capitals: the calendar features 101 labels, 68 of them staging runway shows, while 33 opted for presentations. The event will be held over the course of nine days, as in September 2025 and March 2026.

Two big comebacks will be closely watched. Valentino, in its Alessandro Michele version, will be back on the show calendar on Sunday October 4 at 3:30 pm CET. The luxury label gave the March session a miss, and presented its previous ready-to-wear collection off-calendar at Palazzo Barberini in Rome. Spotlights will also be trained on Maison Margiela, with Belgian designer Glenn Martens at the helm, which is returning to the women’s ready-to-wear calendar in Paris on September 29 at 5:30 pm CET, after showing in Shanghai last season. Sacai too is back on the Parisian calendar, with a show scheduled on Monday October 5 at 10 am CET. In June, the label’s founder Chitose Abe opted to showcase her hybrid looks during Paris menswear week. Designer Charaf Tajer will be showing again with his Casablanca label on Friday October 2 at 2:30 pm CET. Also making their comeback, Australian designer Christopher Esber and inclusive label Ester Manas, back after taking a strategic break to consolidate its supply chain. Among the presentations, heritage label Léonard Paris, upcycling pioneer Xuly Bet, and womenswear label Didu are also back on the official calendar.

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The above names are joining a programme busy with emerging designers, international labels and industry giants. On Tuesday, September 29, it will be the turn of Christian Dior, showing at 2:30 pm CET. On Wednesday, September 30, Tom Ford will fill in the evening slot at 8:00 pm CET, while Balenciaga will be showing on Thursday, October 1, at 2:00 pm CET. The Parisian fashion marathon’s final two days will be packed with an unprecedented number of marquee names: Chanel will take the key slot on Monday, October 5 at 8 pm CET, while Louis Vuitton will close the week at 6:30pm CET on Tuesday, October 6.

Next September’s Paris Fashion Week will reserve a special place for many newcomers. South African label Maxhosa Africa will reach a major milestone. Founder Laduma Ngxokolo, internationally recognised for his exceptional textile craftsmanship and the geometric patterns inspired by his Xhosa heritage, will feature on the Paris runway calendar for the first time. Among the presentations, two womenswear labels will make their maiden appearance: Parisian designer Alexandra Golovanoff, famous for her cashmere knitwear, and designer Fidan Novruzova, who has caught the eye with her architectural cuts and retro-futuristic style.

Renowned absentees 

Despite the stacked programme, there will be several absentees compared with previous editions. McQueen has chosen to hold its presentation in London this season, keen to reconnect with its British roots. Also missing are Rabanne and Nina Ricci, both in transition between creative directors. US labels Off-White, Enfants Riches Déprimés and Thom Browne are giving Paris a miss this season. Marine Serre, Coperni and Giambattista Valli too have withdrawn from this session. They are coming to terms with the market’s vagaries by tweaking the timing of their presentations to fit with private sales meetings in their showrooms or a revised commercial calendar.

Finally, to support emerging designers, the Sphere showroom will be active at Palais de Tokyo from Wednesday September 30 to Tuesday October 6. The showroom operated by FHCM will welcome two new names: Meruert Tolegen, a New York-based label with a softly romantic style, and French label Victoria Valette. They will feature alongside J.Simone, Riz Poli, Sevali, Vautrait and Weinsanto, the latter two also listed on the official presentation calendar. As part of the partnership with the Italian Fashion Chamber, Sphere will also showcase Italian label Act N°1.