Gosha Rubchinskiy returns with new, eponymous collection

Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy, who had disappeared off fashion’s radar this past year, has returned with a new, eponymous collection.

 
The first looks are all menswear, though Rubchinskiy claims to have plans to start expanding this fall into outerwear, womenswear, and more experimental directions, with the long-term ambition of exploring couture.
 
On Monday, Rubchinskiy released images of his latest ideas, featuring photos of a lean, tussle haired model photographed along a river, underneath a wrought iron bridge. Three looks: a Raglan-sleeved trench coat; high waisted baggy denim jeans worn with a piped, slate grey t-shirt; and a high-neck caramel cotton blouson with a striped sailor’s top and wide, pleated pants.

Rubchinskiy had gone quiet ever since he left the creative direction of Yeezy, after a two-year stint at the brand founded by Kanye West. 
 
Back in the noughties, Gosha was the hottest designer in Moscow, after he founded his brand in 2008. His boutique meets club was an obligatory port of call for all visitors to the Russian capital. Adopted by Comme des Garcons, he was the flavour of the moment, staging shows in Paris for two years, starting in 2014. 

 
However, the label did not develop that much traction and Rubchinskiy became better known for his collaborations with the likes of Adidas, Burberry, Diesel, Dr Martens, and even Levi’s.
 
Rubchinskiy’s most famous design became a t-shirt featuring the visage of Vladimir Putin. Even if the designer would like to imply there was an element of irony about the garment, suggesting it was a challenge to toxic masculinity, it has not worn well. This is especially given the cruelty and horrors of the Ukraine war, instigated by Putin over the past three years.
 
“Moving away from the traditional runway calendar, Rubchinskiy will present the brand through a series of cultural events staged in key international cities. Combining fashion with music, photography, and film, these events will serve as the brand’s primary platform for creative expression. Planned destinations include Japan, the US, and China,” said the release.
 
The 41-year-old Rubchinskiy also plans to publish a retrospective photography book, depicting two decades of work, documenting youth culture, and underlining his multidisciplinary practice.