Harrods buying chief hails lighter menswear and Celine, Givenchy, Dior as key from Paris Fashion Week

Simon Longland, director of fashion buying at London’s Harrods has hailed Celine as his top show from the recent menswear collections in Paris saying it “captured the mood of the season with confidence and clarity”. Also on his top five collections list were Givenchy, Lemaire, Auralee and Dior.

But Celine “best met the moment” with Longland adding that it “felt effortless, modern and highly desirable, while remaining grounded in pieces that customers will genuinely want to wear”.

And he highlighted that the fashion week offered up both trends that will matter and a number that won’t resonate.

On the plus side, he hailed the “defining shift” towards a “softer, more fluid silhouette”. This meant “tailoring became lighter, proportions relaxed and layering more instinctive, creating wardrobes that feel versatile rather than prescriptive”. 

And beyond silhouette, there was “a clear return to authenticity through natural fibres, earthy palettes and references to the outdoors”. 

Accessories were more prominent than usual, “particularly jewellery with a personal, collected feel — charms, talismans and pieces that tell a story”. 

And he noted that soft, washed denim “continues to evolve, while lightweight knits, collarless shirting, cargo trousers and refined sportswear all stood out as commercially relevant pieces for next season”.

What stood out most for him was “a growing sense of refinement rather than reinvention. Designers moved away from extremes and instead focused on ease, quality and longevity. Another notable shift is the continued convergence of men’s and women’s creative direction. Across many houses, the conversation is becoming less about gender and more about a shared wardrobe, with collections evolving through a common design language”.

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So what was on his ‘too gimmicky for real life’ list? “Ballet shoes are unlikely to translate broadly to our customer,” he said. “Equally, sheer dressing remains an important runway statement, but it is unlikely to become a meaningful commercial opportunity beyond a handful of fashion-led brands”.

It seems the store is very much focused on what will really work for its customers and he said it’s “continuing to invest in categories that build complete wardrobes rather than individual statements. Accessories — including sunglasses, belts and jewellery — remain a priority, alongside lightweight layering pieces and product that supports year-round dressing. We’re placing greater emphasis on colour for SS27, while reducing exposure to heavier outerwear and weighty knitwear as customers continue to favour lighter, more versatile wardrobes”.