Liu Jo holds first runway show in Venice, aims for half a billion in revenue

With an exclusive event set against the magnificent backdrop of the Scuola Grande della Misericordia in the heart of Venice, Liu Jo unequivocally affirmed its identity and evolution, reasserting the “Liu Jo ORA” manifesto project, first unveiled last November at Milan’s Palazzo del Ghiaccio.

The brand’s vision continues to take shape through a programme of image strengthening and the elevation of its core categories, beginning with denim, reimagined in a contemporary guise and supported by a calendar of collaborations and targeted initiatives, launched in April with a capsule collection with the singer Elodie, which will further broaden the brand’s stylistic horizons.

Inside the Scuola Grande della Misericordia, Liu Jo took to the runway with a set design that transformed the venue into a narrative: historic volumes and monumental perspectives sprang to life thanks to calibrated lighting and a meticulous orchestration of material details, creating an immersive, highly theatrical atmosphere. The runway presented a collection that strikes a balance between aesthetics and functionality through a contemporary wardrobe designed to accompany every moment of the day, with denim taking centre stage, enriched with crystal embroidery and renewed with trompe-l’oeil effects.

“We chose Venice as the stage for this important event because it is a city that represents the distinctly Italian ability to preserve beauty over time. A beauty made of culture, detail, values, and vision,” said Maurizio Croceri, CEO of Exelite, Liu Jo’s parent company, as he opened the evening. “The same vision that Marco Marchi had 31 years ago when he founded the brand, whom I thank for this opportunity and whom I hold in high personal esteem, even before the professional. With Marco we have truly managed to ‘make a system’- a term often overused in Italy- together with all the external teams that work with us.”

FashionNetwork.com: Maurizio, you are the new CEO of Exelite. Tell us about the evolution of your career, and how you intend to “make a system” with Marco Marchi, the brand’s chairman?

Maurizio Croceri: I have been working with Marco Marchi for 11 years, starting with the incredible journey we undertook with Eli Shoes, which we grew from €11 million to €80.6 million in revenue. That experience prompted us to embark on this new adventure together, with the aim of working in synergy and “making a system”- a core principle we have always believed in.

FNW: What is Liu Jo’s turnover, and what are the growth targets, given the broader headwinds?

MC: Turnover reached €497 million in 2025, despite the challenges we all know, particularly in the Middle East. The goal for this year is to continue growing, aiming to surpass the €500 million mark. Italy accounts for 45% of these results.

FNW: With 220 stores, retail is a strategic pillar. What are the plans for new openings and the evolution of the retail experience?

MC: The retail experience is one of the keys to the future. We currently have 220 stores and plan four new openings and refits over the next six months, starting in September. Scheduled locations include a refit of the Milan store in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, as well as Paris, Madrid, and Istanbul from September onwards.

FNW: This Venice event marks your first major runway show; how is the brand’s identity evolving in terms of product and communication?

MC: We have chosen this incredible city and an equally remarkable venue, the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Misericordia, for the brand’s first runway show, which will be accompanied by a new digital approach- far more interactive and experiential. Denim is at the centre, as are crystals, which “are our light.” It’s our stylistic code- that sparkle that has always set us apart- reinterpreted in a new key.

FNW: Are there any other steps planned for the future of Liu Jo?

MC: Certainly, there will be major news not yet ready to announce, which we will unveil soon. For now, I can only say that the direction we are working on is co-creations.

For the upcoming Spring/Summer season, Liu Jo is aiming for a bold transformation, elevating denim from a “simple fabric” to a truly defining identity of the collection. The goal is clear: to free denim from its most everyday connotation and consecrate it as the undisputed protagonist, suitable for every moment of the day, from early morning to the evening party.

Denim is no longer just cotton, but a concept explored in all its facets, from the lightweight to the elegant. The new fits, particularly for bottoms, mark a change of course, moving away from the close-fitting cuts of the past in favour of far more relaxed and contemporary volumes. This versatility is expressed in total looks and in iconic pieces such as the trench coat, offered both in a clean iteration and embellished with appliqués.

Crystals enrich the garments, deployed with finesse both as delicate touches and as bolder accents. They are not merely decorative, but integral to stylistic research into new volumes and pattern cutting. Alongside this luminosity, the collection features a strong presence of embroidery, much of it handmade, and sophisticated openwork. These details, also present on the dresses, are designed to create graphic definition, contributing to a complete look.

The strength of the collection also lies in textile innovation, where the “denim effect” becomes an identity. It plays with transparency, creating garments that look like denim but are in fact made from unexpected fabrics, such as digitally printed chiffon. This technique begins with the creation of an authentic denim garment that is washed, perhaps enriched with lace, and then scanned to obtain a perfect digital print. This artisanal process, combined with the use of precious materials and complex pattern cutting crafted in Italy, ensures a high-quality result that the brand is able to offer while maintaining a balanced price point, thanks in part to decades-long relationships with Italian suppliers.