Is your sunscreen enough? Innovative formulations that really work for Indian skin tones

Is your sunscreen enough? Innovative formulations that really work for Indian skin tones

Is your sunscreen enough? Innovative formulations that really work for Indian skin tones ByZarafshan Shiraz, New Delhi Feb 24, 2025 07:11 PM IST Read this news in brief form Share Via Copy Link Your sunscreen might be making your skin darker, not protecting it. Experts say most sunscreens don’t work for Indian skin—Here’s what does.

Your sunscreen is failing you. Here’s what Indian skin really needs!(Image by Freepik)

Melanin provides some natural UV protection, filtering out more than 90% of UVB and over 80 percent of UVA in deeply pigmented skin. However, higher melanin levels also increase the risk of hyperpigmentation, making skin of colour (SOC) more prone to dark spots, uneven skin tone and melasma.

In an interview with HT Lifestyle, Dr Renita Rajan, Founder of CHOSEN, revealed, “While darker skin is less likely to burn, it remains highly vulnerable to pigmentation disorders and photoaging. A well-formulated sunscreen is essential for preventing discoloration and maintaining skin health.” She elaborated -

For Indian skin, pigmentation is a primary concern, and it can be triggered not just by UVB rays but also UVA, HEVL, and infrared radiation (IR). Broad-spectrum protection is essential to prevent uneven skin tone, melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Most conventional sunscreens fail to block HEVL (blue light), a key contributor to hyperpigmentation in melanin-rich skin. Innovative formulations now include iron oxides and other HEVL filters to provide this much-needed coverage, helping to prevent pigmentation at its root cause.

Consumer behaviour studies confirm what many already know—most people do not reapply sunscreen throughout the day. This makes long-wear, high-performance sunscreens essential, particularly for Indian consumers. For realistic sun protection, sunscreen must be designed to perform in real-world conditions, not just in lab tests where reapplication is assumed.

4. Antioxidants: Enhancing sunscreen protection

In addition to UV filters, antioxidants like Pycnogenol, Astaxanthin, Silymarin, and Polypodium play a crucial role in extending protection beyond UV into the visible light and infrared zones. These antioxidants help neutralize free radicals, reduce inflammation, and prevent oxidative stress, providing holistic protection tailored to Indian skin.

A good sunscreen should protect evenly across the entire UV spectrum, not just against sunburn (UVB). UVA protection should match SPF levels to prevent photoaging and pigmentation. Newer formulations focus on balanced UV defense, ensuring comprehensive skin protection rather than favoring just one type of UV ray.

Not all sunscreen ingredients are suitable for skin of colour. Bergamot oil and lemon oil are known photosensitizers that can worsen pigmentation in SOC and should be avoided in sunscreen formulations. Additionally, more ingredients in a sunscreen can increase the risk of allergens and irritants, which is a growing concern for Indian consumers. Sensible formulations prioritize safe, non-irritating ingredients that protect without exacerbating pigmentation or triggering skin sensitivity.

Dr Renita Rajan answered, “Not all sunscreens are created equal, and for Indian skin tones, the right formulation makes all the difference. A sunscreen that goes beyond SPF—offering broad-spectrum coverage, HEVL protection, antioxidant support, and long-wear performance to suit real consumer habits—is what truly makes it effective.”

She concluded, “With advancements in sunscreen science, Indian skin can now benefit from formulations that not only protect but also preserve skin health, prevent pigmentation, and enhance overall skin resilience. The future of sun care is not just about protection—it’s about smart protection tailored to skin of colour.”

Note to readers: This article is for informational purposes only and not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always seek the advice of your doctor with any questions about a medical condition.