Milano Moda Uomo: Ralph Lauren, the coolest classicism

The house of Ralph Lauren very rarely stages menswear runway shows in Milan, which is a pity as its catwalk display this Friday was the coolest and cleverest display of menswear classicism we’ve seen in many moons.

 
The smoothest of shows too. Presented with polish inside Ralph Lauren’s European headquarters, a geometric Rationalist era jewel of a building. Guests- from Tom Hiddleston and Colman Domingo to Nick Jonas- imbibing biscuity champagne as they took their places on leather bench seats.
 
Opening with a score of looks from Polo, a rich selection of kicky, preppy ideas: red flannel shirts with turkey prints; Navajo graphic wool sweaters; snow crystal pattern cardigans; and even a brown three-piece Prince of Wales suit.  All anchored by Alpine hiking boots or hyped-up L.L. Bean style waders; or accessorised by Black Watch tartan carpet bags.

Plenty of Western looks, from urban cowboy brown suede fringed jackets, worn by a model with an acoustic guitar on his back, to lace ties, rancher hats, and riding boots. Very Yellowstone in Lombardy.

 
Backed up by a great soundtrack- where Nina Simone’s Sinnerman followed Texas Sun by Khruangbin and Leon Bridges. Ideal for some bold and colourful motor-bike jackets that read: Ralph Lauren Racing.
 
As day shifted to evening, Scottish baronial chic made an appearance: from Clan Stewart red plaid tuxedos worn under a Count Dracula cape to a great black Grenadier guards military tunic worn with a black silk stock– un petit merci to Dior. Albeit seen on models sporting New York Yankees baseball caps.
 
“We had so many looks and ideas in this collection that it just seemed right to stage a show this week in Milan,” explained Andrew Lauren, sitting among the movie stars in the villa’s covered courtyard.

 
All worn by a highly diverse cast, from all the world’s continents. And, one could not help noticing that when he came to the two chalk stripe impeccable bankers, these were worn by a South and an East Asian.
 
Though there was clearly no deliberate political message, the very heterogeneousness of the cast was a reminder of how Ralph has always celebrated the diversity of America. Which, at a moment when ICE are clearly racially profiling citizens in the United States, made this show feel very powerful.
 
This is the melting pot America that Europeans love. Not the white supremacism currently being rammed down people’s throats.