​Milan Fashion Week: Prada, Max Mara, Boss

Three cohesive, cool and unexpected collections from Prada, Max Mara and Boss were timely reminders of why one comes to Milan — to see clothes of great distinction and impeccable finish that set global trends.

Prada: do not go gently into the night

In case one had forgotten, Prada is still the biggest game in Milan when it comes to fashion direction, élan and overall chic, as its latest collection presented Thursday usefully reminded us.

Even before the first models appeared, the brand had already stolen a march on its rivals, thanks to its meticulous invitation — a silver steel match box with a tiny white invite bearing a minuscule QR code. And it’s set, a giant lake of bright orange lacquer inside its mammoth show space in South Milan.

The brand’s heat can also be gauged by the thousands of fans outside who screamed in a gaggle of K-pop stars and influencers. Rock‑legend noise levels on the street.

Provocative but always polished, the collection contained a dozen or more nearly‑there bras, that fluttered slightly and were exposed within cut‑out tops, dresses and even aprons. Suggesting a racy soirée hostess, albeit one who lives in a giant loft or bohemian townhouse. Expect that look to go viral very quickly.

One could only admire the daring with which the design duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons approached volume, whipping up all manner of dirndls, wrap, bubble or gathered skirts through alternating sheer fabrics or crumpled materials like technical taffeta. Unquestionably, the key fabric of the current season.

Or dreaming up exceptional dresses, cut pleated below the waist and military above. Finishing necklines, waists and the backs of shoes in bunches of strass and crystals. And accessorizing with soft acid‑hued gloves or a bold new backpack‑meets‑purse.

Often pairing these ideas with some superb light leather jackets — three‑button, peplum or draped.

Nothing quiet luxury about the palette — salmon pink, blood orange, African violet, turquoise blue. Nor about the bold soundtrack, a super mashup of anthemic cuts by Art of Noise.

Coming one day before her former right hand at Miu Miu, Dario Vitale will stage his debut show for Versace, a brand that the Prada group bought after his appointment. One could not help admiring the tenacity and talent on display today at this show by Prada. Quite simply, the best collection so far anywhere, after 16 days on the international runway season.

Max Mara: refined Rococo

A smart change of gears at Max Mara, where the primary inspiration — rococo — led counterintuitively to an even more minimalist take on Max Mara’s classic wardrobe.

Riffing off everyone from Marie Antoinette and Madame de la Pompadour to David Bowie, Max Mara’s creative director Ian Griffiths turned the florid and floral elements of rococo into cool, understated detailing on some ravishing silhouettes.

Unlike the florid décor of 18th-century aristocratic life, there wasn’t a print insight, but nature’s curving shapes were at the center of this Spring/Summer 2026 collection.

Opening with a great series of slimline trenches and tops finished at the shoulders with small clouds of chiffon. Griffiths also sent out body‑con jackets or raincoats, that were backless and finished with funnel necks, or well lapels worn up.

His pants were drainpipes or cigarette shapes, elongating the silhouette, an effect heightened by the hair, stacked up into a pompadour — but of course.

For the evening, he dreamed up gauze petal dresses, playing on the fact that Rococo’s own key inspiration was nature.

“I wanted to show a little of the playful sexiness of Versailles. Or at least the illusion of playfulness,” smiled Griffiths, as a score of editors surrounded him with iPhones. Ian is very much loved by most critics, precisely because he creates clothes of great elegance that flatter and never look vulgar.

The U.K.‑born designer also played with a key Milan trend, exposing plenty of midriff — an expression of how today’s fashionista is a regular gym‑going, weight‑conscious gal.

Backed up by a brilliant mashup soundtrack that blended jazz funk and a magnificent organ concerto, Basso Ostinato was performed by André Van Vilet. Adding grandeur to a show staged impeccably inside the giant ice‑skating ring — Palazzo del Ghiaccio.

Boss: suitably on trend and message

With David Beckham sitting front row, Boss staged its latest show inside a giant former factory in north Milan. But if the setting was rather wrecked, the clothes were spruce and very spiffy.

Photographers went into a meltdown as the soccer ace approached the bench seats where Meghann Fahy of White Lotus fame, Aaron Pierre of Rebel Ridge, tennis champ Boris Becker and the house’s ever‑impeccable CEO Daniel Grieder all gathered.

On the catwalk, K-pop star Sound of Coops closed the show in an ankle‑grazing leather trench coat. After flirting with a number of brands, Sound of Coops committed as brand ambassador to Germany’s most storied fashion label, causing a sensation at the Met Gala in May by appearing in a custom Boss version of a Korean hanbok jeogori jacket.

Boss, at its best, is a smart distillation of contemporary trends made into flattering and functional clothes. Just like this collection, which featured fresh silk‑wool suits, double‑collar shirts, and expansive parkas for guys. Not a tie in sight.

For gals, gently volumed techy dresses and cocktails; mannish shirts and technical taffeta tops. Though the best looks were all the papery‑leather second‑skin shirt jackets, trenches and dusters. Hip without being pushy, stylish but not too avant-garde.

Creative director Marco Falcioni hung scarves, shards, strips and belts of fabric from multiple looks, adding a smart sense of movement to many outfits. Pants for women and men were mostly cut large, forgiving and long, covering half of all the footwear. The palette was soft ecru, putty, tobacco, black — unlike the invitation and runway — battered silver.

There was a bold sense of energy backed up by punchy, booming sounds by wizard DJ Michel Gaubert, a blend of Underworld dance‑party hits.

Helping to earn hefty applause for the burly and bearded designer Falcioni. He sportingly took his bow with a score of members of his design team. Nothing like a collegial designer. Respect.