Copenhagen Fashion Week day one: slip dresses and off-centre tailoring are key

Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off on Monday and in its usual trailblazing way, the focus was squarely on sustainability as well as style. 

Deadstock fabrics and natural fibres had a starring role but the limits of sustainability didn’t seem to limit the imagination of the designers.

OpéraSport, established in Denmark’s capital by Stephanie Gundelach and Awa Malina Stelter, opened the SS26 official show/presentation schedule. Integrating classic and contemporary styles with the sporty edge of Copenhagen, it focused on easy separates and slip dresses with the bikini top a key piece for both city dressing and vacations. Printed or appliqué flowers were also important in a low-profile palette of blues, black, white and mint green.

Freya Dalsjø was back after several years away from the runway with an SS26 offer made from deadstock. The Copenhagen-based label designed by Freya Dalsjø, Karis Dalsjø and Mikkel Schou specialises in intricate craftsmanship and works solely with ‘natural’ materials such as wool, cashmere, silk, leather, and silver. The overall look felt season-neutral with spring grey woollens sculpted into quiet luxury coats and tunics. In fact, the off-centre tunic-easy pants combo was everywhere, as was the one-shoulder dress.

Creamy whites and browns continued the neutrals-natural edge, but leather worked in multiple ways highlighted the craft at the label’s heart. For instance, an intricate leather technique developed by the label saw the material cut and rolled into thin strings which are then are then finely sewn. The strings are cut into various lengths and the ends are coloured and they’re knotted into a base. This is about as far from fast fashion as it’s possible to get.

As with OpéraSport, appliqué florals also popped up at Bonnetje (returning for the second time as part of CPHFW NewTalent), here seen on a simple slip dress in a creamy neutral sheer. And the statement slip dress was a big part of the collection whether bi-coloured and asymmetric with hi-lo hems, or cut in slight heavier materials with raw and intricate seams. But tailoring was also fundamental. The label specialises in reassembling old suits into new silhouettes. So think men’s suiting with a sexier edge, the star piece being the roomy blazer.

Also interesting was Forza Collective with a collection founder Kristoffer Kongshaug said is the result of more than 14 years of experience from working with both smaller houses and large corporations in Paris and New York, including Raf Simons, Christian Dior Couture, Balmain, Lanvin and Theory. It’s all about a “vision and a style rather than fashion or trends”.

But trends weren’t hard to find with the season’s mix of tailoring and softness (yes, the slip dress again) very much on show. Here that slip was the star piece, cut asymmetrically or with some intricate gathering. Wrap effects and strategic cutouts also figured strongly with, again, a mainly neutral palette of black, white and grey, but given a pop via rich reds.

The feel was entirely different at Caro Editions where occasion dressing got colourful in pink-toned lace-like sheers, multicolour polka dots and tonal stripes. There was an 80s vibe to belted dresses and jumpsuits as well as to almost-but-not-quite ra-ra minis. And the exaggerated bow was the key detail. Find it on wrap belts, the hem on polka dot pants, or feminising a pair of sneakers or tote bag.