Published
September 23, 2025
Two designers with careers on slow but steady boils, both working far distant from London -Rory William Docherty and Anamika Khanna from India- helped make exotic and inspiring additions to the last day of London Fashion Week.
Rory William Docherty: Rock Pools and Sea Anemones
One of London’s most beautiful debuts was by Rory William Docherty, who has previously shown down under in Australia and New Zealand.
Of Scottish origin, Rory has divided his time between the UK and down under over the last 20 years, though it was a return to nature in New Zealand which provided the artistic impetus to this slow fashion collection.
The finest looks were his own bold blotchy abstract prints seen in some great dresses, elongated jackets, billowing jumpsuits and little skirts. Though the prints turned out to be culled from nature.
“They were based around a camping trip. That type of reset you need after a season. When I escape into nature and need air. So, I was looking at the landscape – and at rock pools,” explained Docherty.
Looking at nature also led to incorporating sea anemones growing on rocks as jewelry. Hand blown black glass beads seen on super sandals and bag straps. Even blown up into giant bags or exploded into a patent leather sculptural skirt.
Rory’s other explosion was the collar, which splayed out like a puritan on acid, and sometimes grew into a hood. The bold shapes, arty sense of volume and languid mood meant that the clothes recalled the great Japanese designers who have shown in Paris. That said, this was a powerful personal statement by Docherty, a designer and brand on a sure upward curve.
“Knowing that no one here would have heard of me before I thought it was really important to focus on my signature looks, and DNA,” explained 46-year-old Docherty. A strategy which this collection clearly showed had worked.
AK/OK Anamika Khanna: Toy synergy
To Hamley’s mid-afternoon Monday to catch the runway debut of the ready-to-wear collection AK/OK Anamika Khanna, a new line that debuted in Saks last year.
Khanna has been presenting couture collections for two decades in India, but this marked the first Western unveiling of her fresh RTW division AK/OK Anamika Khanna.
The project is bankrolled by the giant Indian conglomerate of Reliance, which also acquired Hamleys in February for some £70 million.
Using the synergy, Reliance closed off the upper floors of Hamley’s, as the cast prowled around the toy store’s racetrack floor, amid Star Wars figurines, Marvin’s Magic lights and Gravity Defying mini drones.
On each seat sat a gift of an intriguing cloth emblem, hand embroidered for 20 hours, which set the scene. For this was a collection all about ravishing adornment.
Opening with ivory silk jackets, chiffon shirts and silk dhotis finished with floral prints; or saucy corsets embellished with fabric flowers. Most looks anchored by very cool lace boxing boots.
Showing plenty of range, she cut striking suits and redingotes in silvery silks finished with metallic embroidery or chain mail patches. Adding the odd metallic finish to jeans to toughen the look.
To Western eyes, Indian designers can often come across as a tad demure. Not Anamika, whose love of transparency was apparent.
Emphasizing a whole boudoir mood, with bloomers, sheer chiffon blouses, cami-knickers and silver sequin bras. Amanika’s girls clearly want to have lots of fun, including Bollywood meg star Sonam Kappor, who sat front row. Hopefully her 34.3 million followers will soon she her in this collection, a definite hit from first to last look.
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