Dior shows pleated, sculptural haute couture dresses in Paris

Riding high after securing the bridal commission of the year- designing pop megastar Taylor Swift’s wedding dress- Dior’s creative director ⁠Jonathan Anderson sent shimmering, sheer gowns and pleated, sculptural handbags down the runway at the brand’s fall/winter haute couture show in Paris on Monday.

Front-row guests at the haute couture show, including actor Josh O’Connor, ​model Alexa ​Chung, and film director Baz Luhrmann, cooled themselves with black bamboo fans that Dior sent with its invitations. The show took place in the gardens of the Rodin Museum as another heatwave hit ‌France, with ​temperatures topping 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit) and set to rise further.

Models emerged onto ‌a black reflective catwalk dotted ⁠with large fern plants, and paraded looks including several constructed entirely of embroidered ‌silk flowers, exploring Anderson’s theme of nature and gardens. Inspired by the work of American sculptor Lynda Benglis, the collection featured four handbags created in collaboration with her. Pleats- a trademark of Benglis’ work- appeared in silk chiffon blouses, trousers, and jackets, while ​giant blue tulle fans were splayed across the front of a dress. Anderson, previously creative director at Loewe, often works with artists and had previously featured Benglis’ sculptures in a ​show for the ‌Spanish ​label in 2023.

Dior’s classic Bar jacket was reimagined in fern ‌green tweed with ‌a frayed fringe, or in grey houndstooth wool draped into a large bow, while another jacket was embroidered all over with white silk threads. Coats were also fluid and ⁠roomy, textured, and fringed or featuring dramatic pleats and bows. The grey, white, and silver colour palette was punctuated with vibrant greens ‌and blues.

Bags inspired by Benglis were giant ​and sculptural, in metallic plissé, while shoes were decorated with floral embellishments or pleated metal bows. Jewellery included pieces designed by artisans in Jaipur, India, according to the ‌show notes.