Setchu and Pronounce take to the catwalk in Milan

The second day of Men’s Fashion Week spotlighted two bold and distinctive collections, from the refined creativity of Japanese label Setchu, to the creative duo behind Pronounce, who marked their 10th anniversary with a travel-inspired collection.

In Setchu’s Net

Satoshi Kuwata brought a “miraculous catch” to the Milan runway with Setchu’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection. This time, the collection was inspired by the award-winning designer’s trip to Gabon, in Africa, a region renowned for river fishing. 

The artisanal savoir-faire and hand-finished details—Satoshi’s signature—took on a new dimension, coming to envelop the silhouettes that walked the runway at the brand’s Milan headquarters on Via Privata Rezia 2. 

As in previous collections, Satoshi started from origami paper—this time rectangular and featuring a circular opening at its centre. Jersey panels were held taut by circular cut-outs that pierce a top or dress. The leather strap, tied using the “Japanese square knot” technique, took on a poetic quality.

Openings dominated the looks on the runway: a slit that accentuated the asymmetry of a black dress; and another that concealed tailoring mastery beneath silk panels whose fastenings remain a mystery. 

Pronounce: The Explorer

It’s anniversary season at Pronounce, which marked its first 10 years with a show at Milan Fashion Week. Following “Kite” and “Wooden Pagoda”, which explored the theme of growth, the creative duo Yushan Li and Jun Zhou celebrated the milestone with “Tiny Voyager”, conceived around travel as a journey of discovery.

See fashion show

At the Fondazione Sozzani, the Chinese brand’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection took to the runway, centring on the figure of the explorer. Tailoring and sportswear, structure and lightness found a synthesis in Pronounce’s wardrobe, which over the years has built a cultural bridge between East and West. 

On the runway, elements of traditional Chinese dress were reinterpreted with a contemporary twist: the pleats of the horse-face skirt inspired new culottes, while details and proportions from the Ming Dynasty influenced shirts and outerwear. Even the Zhongshan suit was reimagined with softer volumes and lightweight materials.

To achieve striking contrasts in weight, texture and transparency, Yushan Li and Jun Zhou used Xinjiang cotton, lightweight wool, washed linen, organza and eco-leather. The colour palette drew inspiration from the landscapes of western China. The season also marked the debut of a line of handcrafted bags and footwear created in-house by the brand.