Published
October 2, 2025
All about Latin America on Wednesday evening at Paris Fashion Week, with an authoritative show by the house of Tom Ford and a collection of great charm and commercial sass by Gabriela Hearst.
Tom Ford: Haute hauteur chic from Haider
The appointment of Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford is beginning to look like one of the smartest hires in many a year.
Even if this is the season of debutant designers at over 15 houses, Haider’s second display at Tom Ford felt like another debut, and a dramatic one as well. For the simple reason, that the founder, Tom Ford, wasn’t present.
Staged before a mere 150 exclusive guests, neatly tucked into Pavillon Vendôme, located between the city’s two most happening fashion inns – Hotels Costes and the Ritz, respectively. A midnight blue show space, with a pond of blue sapphire lacquer on which Ackermann’s cast emoted, indulged and pampered around.
The impossibly aloof models all looking down their nose at the audience. As well they might, seeing as they all looked rather divine. Not for Haider quiet luxury, or practical style. Instead, always high-octane glamor and hyper hip elegance.
Opening with a trio of ravishing ladies in surgically cut coats dresses made of translucent coated lizard skin. Wowing with languid mannish pants suits worn with mini bras; or the ideal suede biker jackets. Debonair for gents in silk blazers in ivory or pearl gray, or Connemara marble green suede blousons.
The gals with late ’50s bob haircuts, the gents with sleek matinee idol gelled hair. The cast, often in couples, arms interlocked acting like lovers.
For evening, revealing chiffon dresses, with cut-outs, jockstraps and a soupçon of the poshly perverse.
“My work is all about strength and fragility, and trying to be out there, so this show relates to something in my mind,” explained Haider, among a throng of well-wishers. Before describing his mature cast as “my companions of many years.”
Culminating the show with iconic models Erin O’Connor and Scott Barnhill reunited in cobalt blue matching suits and owning the runway. A mix of David Bowie’s “Heroes” booming out of the speakers.
“That song is written about forbidden love between two persons. So, we all know what’s going on in the world. So yeah, it’s about having the courage to just stand up. I am not saying something political just indicating with a wink,” added the Colombian-born, but Dutch raised, Ackermann.
Gabriela Hearst: Authoritative archetypes
One show guaranteed to bring a smile to your face is Gabriela Hearst, where the sense of ruddy optimism is a permanent leitmotif.
Doubly so, this season in her choice of opening model, a smiling Oscar winner Laura Dern in a silver lamé gown.
Presented on a terrace overlooking a beautiful garden in a medieval quarter in the bottom of the 5th arrondissement, the mood was upbeat as guests took their seats. Each discovered a finely printed catalogue of watercolor drawings of archetypes: High Priestess, Empress, Nurturer, Mediator and, happily, Lovers.
Their elongated dresses telegraphing the collection which was almost entirely made up of floor sweeping sheathes, gowns, ponchos and cloaks.
“I am a radiant being. I am a living treasure. I deeply honor and value the unlimited resources of courage that is within me,” read one of many texts extolling female sagacity and power in the program.
Uruguayan-born Hearst incorporated many sketches in her looks and followed the elongated silhouette meticulously. Everything had certain regal touch, while also seeming very at ease.
Hearst took her bow in a black leather suit with cowgirl skirt looking like a member of her own cast. And bringing another smile to an audience that left this show in a sunny mood.
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