Paris Fashion Week opens with a new wave of designers and tributes to legends

Shows by Saint Laurent and Weinsanto kicked off a hotly anticipated Paris Fashion Week on Monday, following a blockbuster celebration in Milan for Giorgio Armani, who died earlier in September.

With Milan Fashion Week wrapped up, attention has shifted to Paris, where the Spring-Summer 2026 season is poised to mark a shift in the top ranks of the global luxury fashion industry.

VIPs and fashion insiders are vying for the most coveted ticket of the week — Franco-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel, scheduled for the penultimate day on October 6.

Monday began with shows by France’s Weinsanto and Belgian designer Julie Kegels, a newcomer who drew Spanish singer Rosalía to the front row. Saint Laurent is expected to attract additional celebrities at its high-budget presentation at Place du Trocadéro later in the day.

A-list celebrities, including Cate Blanchett, Glenn Close, and Richard Gere, attended the Giorgio Armani show in Milan on Sunday evening — the final collection the Italian designer worked on before his death on September 4 at age 91.

Originally intended to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Armani’s fashion house, the Milan show became a tribute to the late icon.

In Paris, the spotlight is on a new generation of designers stepping into leadership roles at major labels — with hopes that this industry reset will revitalize declining sales.

Around ten houses have appointed new creative directors, making their debut appearances this season.

“We’re opening a new chapter, not so much for Fashion Week itself, but for what fashion will be over the next 10 years,” Pierre Groppo, fashion editor-in-chief of Vanity Fair France, told AFP.

Blazy was recruited from Kering-owned Italian brand Bottega Veneta to take the helm at Chanel. He now faces the monumental task of moving beyond the legacy of Karl Lagerfeld, who defined the brand’s image until he died in 2019. Lagerfeld was succeeded by Virginie Viard, seen as a continuity candidate and a steady hand.

Blazy, who initially gained attention at Maison Margiela, has remained tight-lipped about his plans since assuming one of fashion’s most coveted roles in December.

New era

Another highly anticipated moment is Jonathan Anderson’s first women’s collection for LVMH-owned Dior, scheduled for October 1, following the strong reception of his debut menswear line in June.

Also drawing attention is Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first collection for Balenciaga, where he replaces Demna, who recently moved to Gucci, with a streetwear-influenced aesthetic. The provocative Georgian designer, known professionally by a single name, leaned into red-carpet glamour at his Gucci debut during Milan Fashion Week.

That collection drew praise from Simon Longland, head of fashion buying at London’s Harrods, who called British designer Louise Trotter’s debut at Bottega Veneta “without doubt the highlight of the week.”

Dutch designer Duran Lantink aims to generate similar buzz with his Paris debut for Jean Paul Gaultier.

The week will also see the first collections by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe, Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, and Mark Thomas at Carven.

Best of the rest

Some major designers will present their second collections — often viewed as more telling than a debut.

These include Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela, and Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford.

Meanwhile, collections from Louis Vuitton and Hermès will share the spotlight with returns from long-absent labels such as Celine and Thom Browne.

Victoria Beckham will also present her latest designs on October 3 — just ahead of the release of a three-part Netflix documentary chronicling her evolution from pop star to fashion designer.

This edition of Paris Fashion Week arrives amid global industry challenges, including softening demand in China, renewed U.S. tariffs on European fashion exports, and overall economic uncertainty.