London Fashion Week opens with Di Petsa, Keburia and Fashion East

London Fashion Week has opened with goddesses, lots of them, as a series of shows by fledgling houses – Di Petsa, Keburia and Fashion East – riffed and rolled on dashing divinities and after-hours idols.

Di Petsa: Alopecia Aphrodite

Goddesses, literally dozens of them, at the latest show from Di Petsa, multiple versions of Aphrodite, and even the odd Poseidon in a co-ed show.

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Divinities destined for nightclubs, not Mount Parnassus, attired in semi-sheer, barely-there cutaway dresses, their hair waxed and curled, in a singular statement by designer Dimitra Petsa.
 
From the winged goddesses in a Cyrillic symbol micro bikini with matching fabric wings, to a seductress in bikini and long slashed T-shirt reading “Fragments of Aphrodite”. To a mud splattered white cut top into a saucy cocktail reading “Angel of Athens”.

A cast whose never-ending limbs were smeared alopecia-like with white dust or soil.  At the finale, two maidens gently washed off the mud from a winged goddess of Samothrace.

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Staged in the basement of a neo-classical mansion near St. Pancras, the cast marched around small mounds of dust, broken pediments and columns suggesting an ancient Mediterranean ruin or collapsed temple. 
 
Though the mood was far from defeated. On the contrary, it was defiant, as the models toured the space in the body-con clothes, yards and shards of chiffon draped and wrapped artfully around their torsos. 
 
The superb soundtrack said it all, a dramatic synth blast named “Tefnut Is the Goddess of Precipitation” by Healing Pharaoh.

Keburia bids adieu to Anna

George Keburia, a self-taught designer from Georgia who was selected as one of six worldwide designers for the 2017 Vogue Talents showcase in Milan, today bid adieu to the woman who helped set up that award, Anna Wintour. To some, one understands, an editorial goddess edging towards the end of her reign.

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“Bye Anna”, read the red lettering on black T-shirt worn with a flouncy faille, petal-shaped mini over red-lace dominatrix boots in black patent leather.
 
Hailing from Georgia, the key location of Jason and Argonauts search for the Golden Fleece, Keburia populated his show with various night-club versions of ancient Greek goddesses. 
 
Staged in a pocket-sized theater under Victoria Embankment, one noticed Medea, goddess of wisdom, strutting out in a double-breasted jacket over medieval courtier shorts.
 
Various versions of Hecate, usually seen with torches or snakes, appeared on drum majorette tops and skirts. Some riffed on the Cross of St. George in the national flag.

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While enchantress Circe smouldered in a silver metallic micro breastplate with matching boots, completed with turquoise mini bubble skirt. Or even hotter in a denim cutaway corset with frogging worn over micro shorts, metal chains and diabolical dominatrix boots.
 
The designer also offered some more classic fare – from admiral’s blazers that could have appeared in a Ralph Laurent show, to a white pant suit worthy of Saint Laurent. But what mattered here was the ribald humour and the after-hours warrior women, in the sort of show one only ever sees in London.
 

Fashion East: Jacek Gleba, Mayhew and Nuba

The most-important scouting show in our industry – Fashion East – celebrated its 25the anniversary this season – showcasing a trio of designers: Jacek Gleba, Mayhew and Nuba.

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Bertrand Russel once opined that only in thought is man a god, but in fashion and sport they can be too. Especially at Jacek Gleba, where the combination of organza and techy active sports materials imparted an unexpected sense of zest.
 
Gleba, a long-time dancer and now designer, blended track pants and leggings with floral tops, hanging triangles of chiffon from shoulders and waist to suggest permanent movement. He swaddled his co-ed cast in loose Aertex tops, fencing corsets or transparent jerkins.
 
Inspired by a 1912 image of Nijinsky, his body bent, and thighs wrap in a skirt.  Think medal-winning Olympians celebrating their golds at an athlete post-podium cocktail.
 

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Staged inside the ICA art space on The Mall, a few hundred yards from Buckingham Palace, the trio of shows opened with Mayhew.

Mudlarking mode, with lots of paint splattered fabrics and scrunchy materials.  All told, super cool street chic by designer Louis Mayhew, even if nothing terribly revolutionary.

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Rounding out this trilogy, Nuba with some very clever minimalist takes on fracks and redingotes. Mainly made of donated materials by designer Cameron Williams, who clearly has plenty of tailoring skills and chops. And will be a name to watch.
 
No goddesses in the show, but plenty of sartorial grove.