From new formats to international guests: MBFWMadrid debuts its forward-looking strategy

On September 17, MBFWMadrid stepped outside Ifema to stage its opening-day shows at the Palacio de Cibeles, in the heart of the city. More than a gesture or a one-off to mark the runway’s 40th anniversary, this change of venue also signalled a shift in the core programme of the capital’s fashion week, which also encompasses Madrid es Moda (held September 13–16 ) and, exceptionally this year, the Carolina Herrera show in Plaza Mayor. From September 18 to 21, however, MBFWMadrid returned to Pavilion 14 at Ifema, the trade fair complex that has traditionally hosted the catwalk. There, too, the event’s new direction was evident, defined by a clear international outlook and a championing of diverse formats.

For the first time this season, traditional runway shows were complemented by presentations in the Berta Benz Room, conceived as an opportunity for new brands to join the calendar and showcase their designs in alternative ways. Paris64, an Aragonese label whose flagship product is handbags, inaugurated the format, demonstrating live—alongside two craftswomen—the making of its designs.

“For Paris64, participating in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week with our presentation has been a milestone. Thanks to this format, which differs from the conventional runway, we have been able to showcase what is key to our brand and our product: fine craftsmanship. Through an immersive experience, we were able to show artisans crafting a handbag—our hero category—in real time, and the different tools involved. It’s something that is very difficult to convey within the traditional runway format,” said María Alfonso, co-founder and creative director of the firm, which generates the bulk of its business internationally and has its sights set on New York for retail expansion.

Flabelus, María Lafuente and Paloma Suárez—each with a performance—completed the presentation line-up in the Berta Benz Room.

“These formats allow us to include in the official programme brands and designers who do not need, or indeed do not want, to stage a runway show. Ultimately, MBFWMadrid is a showcase for Spanish fashion, and therefore it must also embrace handbags, footwear and much more—especially with an eye on the international market,” explained Asier Labarga, director of MBFWMadrid, who made his debut this edition at the helm of the event (with Valentina Suárez-Zuloaga as creative director), speaking to FashionNetwork.com.

A major issue for the runway and for the Spanish industry arises in the conversation: internationalisation. How does Ifema support this development beyond national borders?

“The runway content is fundamental—both in excellence and clarity. The press and international buyers must know precisely what they are going to see and whether it interests them,” Labarga said.

“We are actively facilitating communication between buyers, press, the runway and brands so that, when they come here, everyone gets the most out of it. We did not invite buyers to this edition, but it is one of our aims for the next phase. For now, we are mapping and aligning the goals of brands and professionals. Not all brands are at the right strategic stage to engage with buyers, so we start by working with the companies themselves: ‘What geographical area interests you? Who are you already working with?’ It’s a personalised, almost tailor-made service. We have great talent, but the fashion industry is highly singular because of the differences in size, for example, between one company and another. Working this way ensures efficiency and achieves economic objectives,” Labarga continued.

The director highlighted Europe (a natural, traditional market), the United States (key given the country’s size and consumer volume), the Middle East and Eastern Europe as emerging territories, and Latin America as regions with a particular appetite for Spanish fashion.

“The Latin American market is growing strongly due to the cultural exchange of recent years with Madrid, especially residents, travellers, students, investors… All of this has greatly amplified interest in Spanish fashion—and it shows,” he added.

Talent, industry, internationalisation and craftsmanship

Alongside the shows at the Palacio de Cibeles and the addition of new formats, another cornerstone of MBFWMadrid’s refreshed proposition was the invitation extended to Silvia Tcherassi. The Colombian designer not only presented her work on the opening day but also received an award on the night of September 16 — the International Talent Award. In the national talent category, Palomo was likewise recognised; he presented his first womenswear collection at Madrid’s Palace Hotel on the 17th.

“Both the fashion shows in the centre of Madrid and the invitation to international designers, as well as the awards, are pillars of our new strategy—something we want to maintain beyond this 40th anniversary edition,” emphasised Labarga.

The organisation’s plans are to award four prizes, one for each pillar of this strategy, namely: talent, industry, internationalisation and craftsmanship. According to the runway’s director, the remaining two are expected to be introduced in next February’s edition.

This edition of MBFWMadrid marked the return of Adolfo Domínguez to the Spanish runway, where he presented his “Zenit” collection for spring 2026. It also marked the runway debut—at Ifema, in this case—of the Catalan label The Label Edition.

“It is our first time showing in Madrid, a very important city for our business; moreover, it is a European capital that is ‘on fire’. As this was a special 40th-anniversary edition, we wanted to be there,” said Véronique Vaillant von Siebenthal, founder and creative director of the brand.

The Label Edition, based in Barcelona and firmly positioned in the French market (stocked at Le Bon Marché), has around thirty multi-brand stockists, but plans to reach one hundred in the medium term.

As to whether doyens of Spanish fashion such as Adolfo Domínguez—or younger labels like The Label Edition—will return to Madrid, Labarga points to “excellence”.

“The aim is for the calendar to be varied, engaging and, above all, excellent. Only the best we have should show and take part here; we should be so useful that selection even becomes difficult,” he pointed out. “It’s not about forcing permanence, but about what’s best for the brands, which is why we’re adding more formats. And each company should decide; they can tell me: ‘Right now it’s more useful for me to go to 080 Barcelona Fashion’. And I’ll tell them: ‘If that’s what fits you or what you need at this strategic moment, perfect’. It’s about defining our product very well, expanding the portfolio of offerings,” he added.

Ifema’s role in a new decade

With MBFWMadrid having moved its opening day from the Ifema fairgrounds to the city centre (and intending to continue doing so), it is worth asking about the role of the institution.

“Some people asked me at Cibeles why we didn’t stage all the shows there. First, because it isn’t viable. Second, because then Ifema wouldn’t be adding anything. We provide a venue and resources. And we need to be clear about why it was done at Cibeles and to what end, which is visibility. The challenge is to invest wisely—where you put it to achieve your goal; it’s not about staging beautiful shows for the sake of it… Creating beautiful things is easy; creating commercial formats is hard. And I’ve been put here not only to deliver a good show, but to drive the fair,” Labarga added.

Beyond location, the new leadership has also set about revamping the Ego competition (whose prize is awarded by Mercedes-Benz), traditionally dedicated to emerging talent.

“Ego turns 20 in February and has produced some of the biggest names in the Spanish fashion industry. We have revisited it because, two decades ago, it was aligned with a global trend—pioneered by London—that gave voice to the most transgressive talent, young profiles fresh out of the schools. But that has changed and we have chosen to update the competition and talk about new talent, including entrepreneurs—a word that was not used two decades ago. In this edition we have set up a fashion committee for it and, with a view to the 20th anniversary in February, we are going to finish shaping it,” the executive concluded.