Milan Men’s Fashion Week: the latest creations from Pal Zileri, Lardini, Etro, Montecore, and Santoni

At Milan Fashion Week dedicated to menswear, Pal Zileri celebrates Italian slow living; Lardini draws inspiration from the acts of observing and selecting; Etro pays tribute to its connection with travel; Montecore offers a “casual-chic” elegance; and Santoni focuses on connections.
 

Pal Zileri

 
For Spring/Summer 2027, Pal Zileri presented a collection inspired by the ethos of slow living that defines Italian style worldwide, offered as a fresh and radiant edit characterised by sun-drenched hues, lightweight materials, and a natural, never ostentatious elegance. The pieces fuse sartorial tradition with a new fluidity: on the one hand, structured lines and jackets with English-style armholes, executed with exceptional craftsmanship; on the other, soft, flowing silhouettes cut from fabrics with a liquid drape. Outerwear comes in ultra-light nylon with a soft handle, while the leather offering combines supple lamb suede with raw-edge techniques that accentuate the materials’ lightness and refinement.

 
“One of the focal points of Pal Zileri’s evolution is the product itself: we’re focusing on offering a wardrobe suited to diverse occasions, one that goes beyond the formal/casual dichotomy. We’re also reworking our offer of shoes, bags, and accessories to create a coherent total look,” Carlo Anceschi, the brand’s CEO since last February, explained to FashionNetwork.com. “The brand is performing well; by the end of May, the retail channel was up by 15% year on year. From a business development perspective, we plan to open standalone stores- either directly operated or franchised- in Northern Europe, London, Paris, Madrid, Milan, and the Middle East. The goal is to reach 25 stores worldwide within five years, up from the current 10; we believe that a menswear brand of Pal Zileri’s calibre must guarantee the end customer the level of service that only dedicated retail spaces can provide. For this reason, in November we will also relaunch our e-commerce platform, with the aim of providing ever more services to our customers.”
 

Lardini

Lardini’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection stems from a simple, instinctive gesture: to gather, observe, and choose- echoing childhood, when a found pebble becomes a small treasure to keep. From this image emerges the Pétra collection, conceived from the union of diverse elements- closely observed and carefully selected- to build an essential, materially driven aesthetic language. The lines are clean and the volumes soft and relaxed; the shades recall natural pigments, mineral surfaces, and organic nuances such as sand, dust, chalky beiges, deep blues, and washed tones.
 

The collection is organised into four main universes: “Contemporary Tailoring,” which redefines the tailored wardrobe with modern proportions, lightweight constructions, and new volumes in outerwear; “Iconic Outerwear,” which evolves the brand’s historic codes through technical and functional innovation; “Sophisticated Casual,” which combines comfort and refinement in relaxed looks crafted from fabrics and yarns developed exclusively for Lardini; and “Knitwear & Layering,” which explores layering through varying weights and coordinated techniques. Rounding out the collection are “Soirée,” a contemporary vision of formal elegance, and “La Plage,” a summer capsule dedicated to the sea and leisure time.
 
In terms of commercial development, the brand is focusing on international markets, which currently account for 50% of its business: “On June 12, we opened a mono-brand boutique in Korea at the Gallery Seoul department store; we are also developing Northern Europe and the United Arab Emirates and are pursuing a brand-awareness strategy in Germany and Los Angeles,” founder and creative director Luigi Lardini explained to FashionNetwork.com.
 

Etro

 
Travel- a theme dear to Etro- serves as the inspiration for the brand’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, presented among vintage locomotives in an imaginary station reconstructed at the Leonardo da Vinci National Museum of Science and Technology. The protagonists were a line-up of models paused on the platform: disparate travellers bound for destinations unknown, expressing their distinct personalities through the collection’s colours, stripes, and Paisley motifs.
 

Etro’s travellers express themselves by mixing silk shirts and jackets featuring foulard prints, madras, and exquisite embroidery; jumpers with raised checks; printed suede trench coats; laser-cut suede shirt-jackets; and double-faced silk duster coats. The tailored suit is worn with the ease of a shirt, and sometimes the shirt stands in for a jacket. Stripes set the tempo across the shirts, while Paisley- the brand’s signature- appears in countless variations, at times combined with other motifs.
 

Montecore

 
Carrying forward its “Beyond Time” concept, Montecore presents a Spring/Summer 2027 collection in which the selection of materials remains at the heart of the brand’s vision. Fine fibres and sophisticated material combinations convey a “casual-chic” elegance that meets the diverse needs of contemporary life. The lines are clean, well-proportioned, and free of excess.
 

The collection centres on the brand’s iconic styles: peacoats, field jackets, raincoats, trench coats, and technical outerwear are reinterpreted with essential constructions, measured proportions, and contemporary detailing. Three keywords: lightness, versatility, and texture. Lightness materialises in gossamer wools, breathable cottons, and technical blends that marry performance with natural comfort. Versatility articulates the relationship between function and everyday life. Texture assumes a defining role, lending depth and character to the garments through rich weaves, tactile surfaces, three-dimensional effects, and sophisticated constructions. Natural tones- such as milk, sand, hay, biscuit and tobacco- sit alongside deeper hues, including olive, military green, sky, whale, and midnight blue.
 

Santoni

 
At Milan Men’s Fashion Week, Santoni presented “The Art of Encounter,” a Spring/Summer 2027 collection “inspired by the connections that shape people, places and ideas.” Visitors to the brand’s showroom on Via Montenapoleone were greeted by an installation by Irish set designer Anna Burns: a sculptural table inspired by the infinity symbol that showcased the brand’s five key elements- Santoni Orange, Silk, Velatura, Serpentine, and the Goodyear Reverse construction. Also present were two artisans demonstrating the creation of interchangeable tassels for the Carlo and Carla loafers and revealing the secrets of hand-stitching.

 
The double-buckle Ira model combines the softness of Seta suede with a toe cap in Origine leather- a naturally tanned full-grain calfskin- finished with Velatura, the maison’s exclusive hand-applied colouring technique; the same combination of materials appears on the Arlo bag. A more urban attitude is expressed with the Oscar double-buckle loafer and the Didi 24-hour bag: crafted from Origine leather, Oscar reinterprets a classic design through modern proportions and Goodyear Reverse construction, while the Didi bag distils that balance between functionality and elegance, extending the narrative into leather goods. In the more informal realm, the Off-Duty sneaker, the Weekender and the Eco bag stand out- a reversible shopping bag made from Seta suede and Granato (pebbled-grain calfskin), designed to be embellished with charms and coordinating accessories.