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In the traditional coffee belts of Kodagu, Chikkamagaluru and Hassan in Karnataka, planters say the farming calendar no longer follows memory. Jacob Mammen, managing director of Badra Estates, says climate change is already affecting the cultivation of traditional coffee varieties such as Arabica and Robusta. The biggest challenge, he explains, comes from increasingly unpredictable weather patterns — particularly the timing and intensity of rainfall.Coffee plants depend on a very specific rain pattern for flowering. A spell of rain triggers flowering, and a ‘backup shower’ about two weeks later helps the flowers set properly. In recent years, however, growers have faced erratic conditions — either too much rain, too little rain, or rain arriving at the wrong time.
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This disrupts the flowering cycle and directly affects yields.Extreme weather events are also becoming more frequent. Jacob notes that hailstones last year destroyed coffee flowers on the estate, wiping out the crop in affected areas. Unseasonal rains are also creating harvesting and quality issues. “Early showers, sometimes as early as January, can cause new flowers to open while ripe cherries are still on the plant. When that happens, pickers must stop harvesting to avoid damaging the fresh flowers. At the same time, rain can cause the ripe cherries to deteriorate or dry out, affecting the quality of the beans.”New Bean On The BlockAgainst this backdrop, Jacob says interest is growing in climate-resilient varieties such as Liberica coffee. Traditionally, Liberica was treated as a fence-line crop rather than being cultivated as a main plantation variety. At Badra, it is still largely grown as ‘tree coffee’, planted along the boundaries rather than as a replacement for Arabica or Robusta in the fields.However, the estate is beginning to rethink this approach.Coffea liberica is considered more climate-resilient than other major coffee species because it can tolerate higher temperatures. The plants develop deep and extensive root systems that allow them to access water from deeper soil layers, helping them survive drought conditions. They also show greater resistance to diseases such as coffee leaf rust, which has historically devastated many coffee plantations.Liberica trees are also larger and sturdier, enabling them to withstand heavy rainfall, storms and variable weather patterns. The ability to grow in poorer soils and adapt to changing environmental conditions makes Liberica a promising climate-resilient coffee species as global warming increasingly threatens traditional cultivation.Market demand is another factor driving renewed interest in Liberica. According to Jacob, buyers in India and overseas are increasingly curious about the variety because of its distinct fruity and sweet flavour profile, which sets it apart from Arabica and Robusta.However, Liberica still faces outputrelated challenges. At present, its yield is significantly lower than that of Arabica or Robusta. This is partly because it is still largely grown as a tree crop along fences rather than as a fully managed plantation variety.Search For ExcelsaAnother ‘tree coffee’ variety, Excelsa, is also generally considered climateresilient. The jury is still out on whether it classifies as a variety of Coffea liberica, as it shares many of Liberica’s traits. Excelsa can tolerate high temperatures, irregular rainfall and humid tropical conditions better than Coffea arabica, which is more sensitive to climate change.Adhi Savla, senior manager for Coffee Community at Blue Tokai, says they source Excelsa from South Indian Coffee Company (SICC) but it is currently sold out. “The quantity is very low as they are experimental lots,” he says. “Excelsa offers a heavier body with distinctive cola-like notes, making it a unique experience for coffee drinkers.”SICC has been exporting Excelsa since 2017. Akshay Dashrath, co-founder of SICC and a fifth-generation coffee grower, says sometimes the issue isn’t just heat, it’s also too much moisture. “For example, in 2024, we had 65 inches of rainfall on our farm. That is normal historically, but what was abnormal was that 33 inches came in a single month. These conditions are hard for Arabica and Robusta to tolerate. Excelsa does well in such conditions because it is a deep-rooted tree.” Their Mooleh Manay Estate in Coorg produces about three tonnes of clean Excelsa a year.Planters AdjustArvind Rao, former chairman of Karnataka Planters’ Association, points out that most planters have not really tried climate-resilient varieties because availability is not adequate as of now, even from Coffee Board. But they are taking other steps to adjust. “We are conserving water, building storage tanks, devising irrigation so that, during blossom, we can irrigate and mitigate drought to some extent,” Rao explains.Shade regulation has also changed. “We are maintaining slightly higher shade to keep temperatures lower. Of course, it reduces the crop somewhat but it helps manage heat stress.” Soil health has also become central to the conversation, with composting and organic matter incorporation used to improve water-retention.Resilience Alone Not EnoughBinny Varghese, industry observer and processing expert, says some existing varieties are still performing well. “From what I’ve observed across Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, S795 still holds strong,” says Binny. S795 is an Arabica selection known for high yield, coffee leaf rust resistance, and a flavour profile with notes of mocha or chocolate.“It’s not fashionable, but it’s genetically stable and relatively adaptable to mid-elevations. With disciplined picking and controlled fermentation, it can produce very clean cups with structured acidity and good sweetness.”Selection 9, Binny adds, also remains significant. Selection 9 was developed in India by crossing Tafarikela (an Ethiopian Arabica) with Hibrido-de Timor, a rust-resistant hybrid.Data To Track Climate RisksClimate conversations on coffee estates have also changed. “Earlier, climate conversations were cautious. Now, they are data-driven and experience-based. Younger producers are using modelling,” says Binny. Farmers now track irregular blossom showers, temperature spikes during fruit development and unexpected rain during drying — all of which affect bean density and fermentation predictability.“What’s interesting is that adaptation is no longer seen as just ‘plant a new variety’,” notes Binny. “It’s integrated thinking — canopy management, spacing, moisture management, selective picking, even adjusting processing styles to handle inconsistent ripeness.”In Karnataka’s hills, planters are already waking up — and smelling what the future of coffee might hold.
